Braving the Matatu

In many places that I’ve visited (Amman, Panama, Israel) a private system for public transport flourishes.  Here in Nairobi, there is the matatu.  Matatus are vans that hold approximately 16 people (or more if squeezed in) and ride along the established bus routes picking up and dropping off passengers anywhere along the route. There is a driver and an expediter who handles all the money and tells the driver when to stop and when to continue on.  DW, in his many moons of travel to Nairobi, has never ridden a matatu.  And for good reason.  Matatus drivers have a reputation for being wild and completely unsafe.  The ride was rumored to be stinky, with ear-blasting music, and you might pick up TB (or some other disease) to boot.  Basically, not recommended.  But since arriving, I’ve met a number of young, muzungu women who ride matatus during the day – so I said, what the heck?!  Let’s do this.  I asked my new friend RK to take me for a ride.  (She rides them all the time.)

First, the pick up.  You better know where you are going and you have to know approximately how much it will cost.  You should confirm this before hopping inside.  We had a choice of matatus at our various pick up points and you can decide that one looks too rickety, the music is too loud, or you generally have a good feeling about one versus another.

Then, the ride.  Relieve yourself of any notion of personal space, because you won’t have any.  People will smush themselves into spaces “between” seats where no tush will fit.  Make sure you have small change.  The expediter will give change, but will not be happy with big bills.  Body Odor…. Yes.  Blaring Music….. Indeed.  Some drivers seem to be worse than others, but the ones who took me around town seemed downright cautious.

Finally, the dismount.  The expediter will tell the driver to stop, but it may seem more like a rolling slow-down than an actual stop, especially if it’s not a regular pick up point.  Be prepared to force your body through some small spaces to get out of the vehicle. 

All said and done, my matatu ride was actually pleasantly uneventful.  Yes, it was a bit uncomfortable, but the price was right.  We paid 20 bob (shillings) – approximately 23 cents for a ride that would’ve easily been 500 or so by taxi.  Cool.

Next up – the motorcycle taxis.  (But I’ll tell my mom about it only after I arrive where I’m going safe and sound.)