TIA

I really haven’t had much need to reflect on T.I.A (This is Africa) for quite some time.  Actually, sometimes it is hard to remember that I live in a place that others think of in just stereotypes – Africa is poor, disorganized, corrupt, misogynistic… etc.  I don’t live that life here in Nairobi.  My day-to-day is incredibly tidy, efficient, and calm.  My local mall is organized and bright.  Our electricity generator kicks in when the power goes out.  My husband changes diapers.  Apropos of nothing: the coffee is delicious!

But even as I write those words, I reflect on aspects of our lives here that are indicative of the underbelly of Africa.  DW had to pay a bribe to a police officer when he was pulled over in his car.  It is apparent now that the recovery/rescue effort at the Westgate Mall was completely bungled by incompetent forces who, in a powerplay refused to share information, and that shops were robbed outright by police and military forces.  It even seems like the supposed rescuers sat back to drink some beers while armed gunmen (and maybe women) killed and terrified civilians.  Lydiah was pickpocketed yesterday; her phone gone.  VAT taxes were recently hiked by the parliament so dramatically that Lydiah’s regular matatu bill jumped from 500 to 700 shillings a week – a pretty steep increase and one that has caused many to forego public transit in favor of walking long distances.  This will be particularly hard when the rainy season begins soon.  And there are little things too, most that irk rather than bother.  We bought a blender, but when we unpacked it at home, it was broken.  The return took over an hour.  They had no replacement.  Getting Jonah to the pediatrician often takes an hour and a half in each direction.  His ped is only 13 kilometers away.  The internet is usually slow. 

Could all of these things happen anywhere? Sure, probably (although I’ve never heard of anyone in my orbit bribing police for a traffic violation.)  Are these mostly rich-people-problems?  Yes, I know.  And maybe I’m just being cranky because J isn’t getting to sleep well and I have some stomach stuff going on. And reading today in the NYTimes that Kenya is ripe for additional attacks aimed at westerners makes me want to get out.  

And even with the TIA annoyances, I am reminded of all the amazing things that are only in Africa.  For example, DW’s high school buddy, TG, visited last week.  He didn’t have time to go on a full-fledged safari, but I wanted to show him the town, so we went to Nairobi National Park to see what we could see.  And did we ever!  The national park is located just south of the city (not more than 15 kilometers from our house), but it is a full-on African savanna with lions and hippos and giraffes and ostriches and flamingos and zebras and wildebeests and hartebeests (that I now can tell the difference) and antelope of all kinds… and the list goes on and on.  Holy molies!  Lydiah had never been to the park even though she has lived most of her life in Nairobi, so she and Jonah came along.  What an unbelievable day.

Saturday we leave for another trip, this time to Amboseli National Park, which is famous for its herds of free-ranging elephants.  Yea, baby.  I love me some elephants!  We are taking advantage of living here, as long as it lasts. 

Yes, I’m a bit cranky, but it isn’t overwhelming me.  Hopefully J starts sleeping better and this stomach thing goes away, and it’ll be smoother sailing.  Hopefully.